Grandma Dot Tea Cosy…Free Pattern.

captureThis is the third tea cosy in the Grandma collection, designed with simplicity and sweetness.  The top down design means this pattern makes for a quick hook up.  Ideal for beginners and sure to guarantee  a perfectly sweet cosy for your teapot. The Grandma Dot Tea Cosy, crochet tea cosy, The Grandma Collection by ayarnyrobinDedicated to the inspiration that was ‘Nanna Dot’

dotty little crochet flowers

The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 4 cup teapot.

I used less than 50g of Stylecraft special dk yarn in colourways cream  and raspberry which I used  as my base colours.  Please note that I have used a different colour yarn in the photo tutorial below. 

I also used scraps of stylecraft special dk yarn in: lipstick, saffron, meadow, fondant, gold, shrimp, lime, khaki and grape.

You will also need a darning needle, a selection of beads with a centre hole wide enough for the dk yarn to be threaded through, a pair of scissors and x4 stitch markers (or small safety pins or scraps of different colour yarn).  The use of a hot glue gun is optional, flowers can either be glued into position or stitched.

  ayarnyrobin,beads and crochet

Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.

Ch – chain stitch 

slst – slip stitch

hdc– half double crochet  (half single crochet)

You will also need:

a 4mm crochet hook

 

Ok, here we go…

Using the raspberry yarn  Ch 4

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Join with a slst to form a ring.

Row 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6hdc into ring,

finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (6hdc).

 

Row 2: Ch1, (does not count as a st) 2hdc in same space, 2hdc in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (12hdc).

 

Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next st* . Repeat * – * to end,  finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (18hdc).

 

Rows 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 2 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (24hdc).

 

Row 5: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 3 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (30hdc).

Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st),   2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdcin next st, 1hdc in next 4 sts*.  Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).

 

Row 7: ch1 ( does not count as a st), 1hdc in same space and in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).  

 

Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space andin each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).

 

Row 9 and 10: Repeat row 7, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).  

You should have something that is starting to look a bit like a flying saucer!  This is a good point to check your measurements with your intended teapot.  Place your hooked disc on top of your teapot. You want the edges of the circle to be approx. 1cm from the handle of the teapot.

To mark out handle and spout holes, simply take x4 st markers (or cut short pieces of yarn in a different  colour as I did) and place/ tie first marker in the st behind where you joined last row.

Counting backwards (or to the right)miss x3 sts and place/tie second marker in next st.  This marks out your handle. 

 

From this second marker count backwards (or to the right) 30sts and place 3rd marker in the next st (31st st).  Return to the first marker and count forwards 30 sts (or to the left) and place 4th marker in the next st.

 

 You have now marked out the handle and spout positions for your cosy.  Marker 1 and 2 indicate the handle space and markers 3 and 4 indicate the spout space.

The next stage of the cosy is to construct the sides.  So, for the purposes of the pattern these will be referred to as side A  (between marker 1 and 4) and side B between marker 2 and 3). 

crochet tea cosy by a ayarnyrobin

Side A row 1: In Cream yarn Ch 1(does not count as a st)* 1hdc in same st and in each st along to marker/tie 4, ch1, turn*

 

Side A row 2: repeat Side A row 1 returning to marker/tie1.

 

Repeat  (side A row 1 and side A row 2), to fit the height of your teapot.  I completed 15 rows in total.  Fasten off.

To complete side B, join  cream yarn in stitch to the left of stitch marker number 2

repeat Side A instructions between markers 2 and 3.  Fasten off and sew in all loose ends.

Remove stitch markers. 

Place on your teapot to check the fit.

Next, using a darning needle sew sides A and B together  from the bottom of the cosy  to below the spout (approx. 2 rows) and on the handle side from the bottom of the cosy to below the handle. 

Now for the creative part… making ‘dotty little crochet flowers’.  I made x4 flowers in each of the following colours:

lipstick, fondant, grape, gold, raspberry, saffron and shrimp

A dotty little crochet flower
A dotty little flower

To make a ‘dotty little flower’ ch4, slst to 1st chain to make a ring.  Ch 2 (counts as a hdc) x9 hdc into ring, slst into top of starting ch and fasten off to finish. 

To create flower centres you can cross stitch the centre,  add beads and create a french knot centre.

I used a cheat method to create the french knot centre by pulling a piece of yarn from the back of the flower to the front and then tying a knot x10 in the yarn in exactly the same place to make a large knot.

a dotty little flower

To finish thread the other tail of the yarn from the front to the back, so both tails are now at the back of the flower, tie to secure and trim tails short.

A dotty little crochet flowerdotty little crochet flowers

Secure your dotty little flowers to both sides of the cosy.  You can sew them into place or secure them with hot glue!  Then using green yarns sew simple stems and leaves using a back stitch to finish.  I used  stylecraft special DK yarn in meadow, khaki and lime.

dotty little crochet flowers

And there you have it…a sweet dotty flower tea cosy to keep your brew warm.

xxxxx

I REALLY HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED MAKING THIS PATTERN AS MUCH AS I HAVE ENJOYED CREATING IT FOR YOU.  IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT SOMETHING OR NOTICE ANY ERRORS PLEASE SHOUT UP.  EQUALLY PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE YOUR DOTTY FLOWER CREATIONS IN THE COMMENTS BELOW…I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Grandma Dot Tea Cosy

captureIntroducing the ‘Grandma Dot’ tea cosy…the third  in the Grandma Collection

The Grandma Dot Tea Cosy, crochet tea cosy, The Grandma Collection by ayarnyrobin

Dedicated to my husband’s Nanna Dot who was a truly formidable woman. 

Nanna Dot was a tiny woman in stature but a mighty woman non the less. 

Strong, brave and wise with the most beautiful smile.  No matter what was going on or how much hell was breaking loose round about; Nanna Dot would make a cuppa tea or something a wee bit stronger and in a way that I still do not really understand, she would put things into perspective with a gentle reassurance.

dotty little crochet flowers

 

I wish I had known Nanna Dot for longer.  I especially loved her love of family and Christmas.  Family were so important to her.  When my first son was born, we counted from Nanna Dot and Grandad Ernie that our son was number 50….a BIG family indeed!

dotty little crochet flowers

 

So this cosy is covered in ‘dotty little flowers’ 

 

  A meadow of ‘dotty little flowers’ to represent the growth and legacy of her family, which at last count is upwards of 60!

 

 

The Grandma Dot Tea Cosy, crochet tea cosy, The Grandma Collection by ayarnyrobin

So that is the Grandma Dot tea cosy in all of its glory, here is the pattern linky thing which is free and has a photo tutorial also.

xxxxx

Corfu Barefoot Sandals Free Pattern.

 

As promised Ginny, here is my pattern for these cute Corfu barefoot sandals.

crochet barefoot sandals designed by ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com, summer feet

You will need approx. 7m of yarn for each sandal, I used Paintbox dk cotton in cream and a 4mm hook. 

You will also need x5 beads for each sandal, I used beads from a cheap bracelet.  Just make sure the threading hole in the bead is large enough for your yarn. 

Other useful items you will need are a pair of scissors and a darning needle to weave in the ends.

This pattern uses English terminology and the following abbreviations:

Ch – chain stitch

st- stitch

slst – slip stitch

dc – double crochet

htr- half treble

tr – treble crochet

dtr – double treble crochet

 

By adjusting the number of chains in the ties, you can make them longer or shorter to suit.  Additionally adjusting the number of chains in the toe loop for comfort may be required. 

To skip photo tutorial, head to the end of the post for written pattern without photo’s.

So, assuming you have gathered your supplies cut at least 7m of yarn from the ball, knot one end and thread X5 beads on.  The X2 beads nearest the knot will be located at the end of the ties of the sandal, the following X2 beads will be located, just before the tie chain starts, and the last bead you thread will be the bead nearest the toes (I used a different bead which was larger and sparkly for this)…the darker bead in the photo.

crochet barefoot sandal free pattern
move the beads to the end of the yarn for later…

Now, starting at the other end of the yarn to the beads, leave a long length, approx. 50cms.  You will use this at the end to make the toe loop.  Make a loop 

crochet barefoot sandal, corfu, free pattern by ayarnyrobin

Chain 6 and bring first bead down

crochet barefoot sandal free patternJoin with a slip stitch into 1st chain – catching / incorporating the bead in the centre

crochet barefoot sandal free patternCh4 (counts as a dtr)  As you make the next stitches around the bead be careful not to weave in the long tail that you are saving for your toe loop.

2dtr into loop (this can be a bit fiddly getting the hook in next to the bead)

crochet barefoot sandal free pattern

Continue working in the loop around the bead as follows

2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr

and join with slst in top of beginning ch4 (feather made).

crochet barefoot sandal free patternNow ch6,

crochet barefoot sandal free pattern at ayarnyrobin

in 2nd ch from hook *dc, 2tr,dc* (1st cluster)

miss a st and repeat *—* (2nd cluster),  slst into top of feather.

crochet barefoot sandal, Corfu, free pattern, ayarnyrobinTurn work so feather is on the your right hand side

Crochet barefoot sandal, a free pattern by ayarnyrobin

The next set of stitches will be made in the base of the  1st cluster st, (see photo).  But first, bring the second bead down and rest it on top of cluster, now slst in base of cluster st to secure.crochet barefoot sandal free pattern by ayarnyrobin

*Dc,2tr,dc* in same space. 

crochet barefoot sandal, free pattern by ayarnyrobin

Bring down third bead and repeat  *—* in second cluster.

crochet barefoot sandal, free pattern by ayarnyrobinTo finish cluster slst in 1st ch at the start of 1st cluster (see photo above).

*Ch55, bring down 4th bead, slst into 4th ch from hook and pull tight to secure bead.

crochet barefoot sandal, Corfu, a free pattern by ayarnyrobinDc in each ch back to cluster, slst into top of cluster* (tie made) repeat  *—* to make second tie.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

crochet barefoot sandal, Corfu, a free pattern by ayarnyrobinReturning to length of yarn left at start, weave end to bottom of feather

crochet barefoot sandal, Corfu, a free pattern by ayarnyrobininsert hook into top st of central dtr and pull up a loop

crochet barefoot sandal, Corfu, a free pattern by ayarnyrobinCh12 and slst into top of central dtr which you started ch from.  Tie off and weave in ends. 

Now to make another! 

I really hope you have enjoyed making these barefoot sandals, I would love to see some pictures if you have.

xxxxx

Written pattern without photo’s.

Corfu Barefoot sandal by ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com

crochet barefoot sandals designed by ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com, summer feet

cut at least 7m of yarn from the ball, knot one end and thread X5 beads on.  The X2 beads nearest the knot will be located at the end of the ties of the sandal, the following X2 beads will be located, just before the tie chain starts, and the last bead you thread will be the bead nearest the toes

Now, starting at the other end of the yarn to the beads, leave a long length, approx. 50cms.  You will use this at the end to make the toe loop. 

Make a loop, Ch6 and bring first bead down, join with a slip stitch into 1st chain – catching / incorporating the bead in the centre.

Ch4 (counts as a dtr)  As you make the next stitches around the bead be careful not to weave in the long tail that you are saving for your toe loop.
2dtr into loop (this can be a bit fiddly getting the hook in next to the bead).

Continue working in the loop around the bead as follows
2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr
and join with slst in top of beginning ch4 (feather made).

Ch6, in 2ch from hook *dc, 2tr,dc* (1st cluster)
miss a st and repeat *—* (2nd cluster),  slst into top of feather.

Turn work so feather is on the your right hand side.

The next set of stitches will be made in the base of the  1st cluster st.  But first, bring the second bead down and rest it on top of cluster, now slst in base of cluster st to secure. *Dc,2tr,dc* in same space. 

Bring down third bead and repeat  *—* in second cluster.

To finish cluster slst in 1st ch at the start of 1st cluster.
*Ch55, bring down 4th bead, slst into 4th ch from hook and pull tight to secure bead.

Dc in each ch back to cluster, slst into top of cluster* (tie made), repeat  *—* to make second tie.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Returning to length of yarn left at start, weave end to bottom of feather, insert hook into top st of central dtr and pull up a loop, Ch12 and slst into top of central dtr which you started ch from.  Tie off and weave in ends.  

Sandal made, now repeat to make another!

crochet barefoot sandals - Corfu designed by ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com, summer feet

 

 

Baby Shower Diaper Cake…

Take a look at this little creation I just made…

I would have adored one of these when I was expecting!  So, I got to work constructing my diaper cake as soon as I received my friends baby shower invitation. 

There are lots of tutorials on the web about how to make your own diaper cake, but I did take photo’s of each step and have included them below. 

I found the hardest part of creating a diaper cake was deciding on the colours and of course a theme! 

I used an old cake board, a kitchen roll tube, card,  scissors, sticky tape, hot glue gun, elastic bands, string, ribbons, a teddy, ‘sweet dreams’ bunting and some artificial daisies and about 64 size 2 diapers (nappies).

So this is how I made mine…

Step 1:

roll up your diapers…

I used the kids loom bands to secure, but elastic bands would work too. 

Step 2:

Using the scissors snip approx. 1cm around one end of the kitchen roll. 

Step 3:

Secure the tube to the centre of the cake board with sticky tape.

Step 4:

place rolled up diapers around the tube.

Begin placing rolled up diapers around the base of the tube, in x3 rounds.  Secure each round with an elastic band or tie with string.  If tying with string keep loose ends short and tuck any remaining ends in between the diapers as you go to keep your cake looking neat. 

Step 5:

Hot Glue a ruffled ribbon around the base onto the cake board.

Step 6:

Repeat the process for the second tier, this time for 2 rounds only.

Now, at this point, the kitchen tube, disappeared as you can see in the photo above, as the height of the tube was equal to the height of the second tier. 

You don’t really need to worry if your cake topper is rigid or small.  But, as my topper was a cute little bear, that was quite floppy and soft, I added an extension to my tube in the form of a bit of plastic pipe, Mr R had spare. 

If you need to extend your tube, card would suffice at this point, but as I did not have any I went with the plastic pipe.

To secure Mr Bear, I tied his leg with a bit of string and threaded the string through the pipe, securing the string at the bottom of the pipe with sticky tape.  I then placed the pipe inside  the kitchen tube, before proceeding with step 7. 

You may find you can go straight to tier 3 and decorate with your topper once tier three is insitu, it will just depend upon what you have chosen for your decoration. 

Step 7:

The final Tier, just one round of diapers needed here.

Step 8:

Using the hot glue gun secure your ribbon in place.

Just like so.

Step 9:

add your decorations.
Sweet Dreams Diaper Cake

And there you have it. 

I just love this sweet dreams theme in aqua and grey. The little yellow centres in the daisies  and Mr. Bears matching bow tie add a little extra zing! 

It looks so elegant and I have had so many gushing comments about it and requests to make more I may just have to!

If this inspires you to make a diaper cake I would love to see your pictures, your colours and your themes and just how your imagination runs away with this quick and simple project.

xxxxx

 

Chain Reaction Necklace Scarf…

Here is a quick pattern for a necklace scarf.

A simple but stunning item that you can make if you are new to crochet, or have an odd 50g ball of chunky yarn that your not sure what to do with, or if you need to hand make a present emergency style!

Yep, this beauty takes about an hour to make at most and the pattern (if you can call it that!) is just below. 

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You will need  50g of chunky yarn and a large hook. I used

wp_20161023_11_48_37_prowp_20161023_11_48_50_proand a 6mm hook.

 

So you have probably guessed it….begin making chains and don’t stop until  you have about 50cms of yarn  left. 

Randomly tie the first part of a bow to form a loose knot in your chains at random sections down its length.

Chain reaction necklace scarf
Chain reaction necklace scarf

 

Now join with a slip stitch into the very first chain to make an enormous loop. 

It may be a good idea to secure the stitch with a stitch marker or safety pin so that your chains do not unravel during the next part.

Now find something to put your enormous loop of chains around… I used the stair post at the bottom of the stairs. 

Start to make the loop smaller by crossing over the chains and hooking back over the post…or whatever you are using.  Repeat the process until you have a handful of loops; that  when placed around your neck fall just at the top of your tummy. 

Next, you need to secure your loops together.  To do this

remove the stitch marker / safety pin and reinsert your hook.

wp_20161023_11_24_03_pro 

Pull the loop onto your hook to make the yarn looser.  Now complete a giant double crochet (single crochet – American terms)… to do this take your hook under the handful of looped chains, yarn round hook and pull through, yarn round hook and pull through 2 loops on hook.  Repeat x 9 more times.  Fasten off and weave in any loose ends. 

wp_20161023_11_23_38_pro

Told you it hooked up quick!

xxxxx

 

Favourite thing I’ve made…

Day 28 of

#yarnlovechallenge 

and this is the final day!! 

The theme for today is ‘favourite thing I’ve made’.  

Now really…do I have to choose? 

Ok…well just for today this is my favourite hook up,

wp_20170225_15_31_39_pro
100 patch granny

because I adore the colours and that bobble edge border is just sooo super cute, and possibly the most addictive thing ever to hook.  Seriously, it should come with a warning!

xxxxx

 

Blocking…

Day 27 of

#yarnlovechallenge 

and we are almost at the end now. 

The theme for today is ‘blocking’.  

pinning to block...
pinning to block…

Not my favourite part of the process, but certainly worthwhile.  These are my robin nest squares in the blocking phase.

xxxxx

Library…

Day 21 of

#yarnlovechallenge 

and it’s still not too late join in. 

The theme for today is ‘library!’.

WP_20160127_09_29_27_Smart

This isn’t my library… but probably the world’s smallest library ever, in a phone box!

You can read all about my visit here. 

I made these cute little flower bookmarks and left them as a present.

xxxxx

Grandma Mabel Tea Cosy…Free Pattern.

captureThis is the second tea cosy in the Grandma collection, designed with a slight twist on an original theme to keep your teapot well dressed and looking fine.  It is fun and frilly and a little OTT… but that’s what I love…

 

Dedicated to the inspiration that was ‘Mabel

wp_20161204_12_05_29_pro

  The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 4 cup teapot.

I used just under  50g of Stylecraft special dk yarn in colourway duck egg, lipstick, saffron, meadow, candyfloss and cloud.

You will also need approximately 40 buttons in similar colours and of  all different sizes which  were languishing in my button jar.

  wp_20161126_17_20_23_pro

Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.

Ch – chain stitch 

slst – slip stitch

dc – double crochet ( single crochet)

dc tog – double crochet together (single crochet together)

You will also need:

a 4mm hook

a darning needle

scraps of yarn to use as temporary tie markers 

a stitch marker 

approximately 120cms of lace about 3cms wide

Top Tip: safety pins make excellent stitch markers! 

Ok, here we go…

Using meadow Ch 80 and join with a slst to form a circle (before completing the slst make sure chain is not twisted).

wp_20161009_17_46_38_pro

It is a good idea to check at this point that the circle of chains fits around your teapot. (see end of pattern for instructions about adjusting pattern).

Row 1: Ch1 (mark with a stitch marker, does not count as a dc), dc in each ch around,

finish with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker taking care that work is not twisted when completing the slst. (80dc).

wp_20161009_20_35_12_pro

Row 2: Ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as a dc)

Dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker. (80 dc).

 

Rows 3: repeat row 2, before joining with a slst in ch marked with st marker  (ie/ when you have the last 2 loops on your hook of the last st of the round – see photo)

wp_20161009_20_50_05_pro

 join the lipstick (red) yarn and finish with a slst as shown below

wp_20161009_20_50_54_pro

Rows 4 – 6: repeat row 2

wp_20161009_21_18_28_proWe are now going to place a tie marker (a temporary mark) to indicate the space for the handle hole.  Before you start the next row, take a small scrap of yarn in a contrasting colour and thread through st marked with the stitch marker. Tie a bow. 

Row 7: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as dc), slst in the same st as the tie marker and in next 4 sts, mark this last slst with a second tie marker. This indicates the space for hole for the handle.

wp_20161023_18_24_47_pro

1dc in next 75sts around to stitch marker.  On 75th dc (last st)change to candyfloss (pink yarn) ie/ when last 2 loops on hook of the last dc as before.  Finish st with pink yarn, slstinto ch marked with st marker (75dc, 5 slst).

wp_20161023_18_35_21_prowp_20161023_18_36_55_pro

Row 8: Ch 1 (counts as a dc), turn work,  1dc in next 74sts (this row should finish in the st above the st marked with the tie marker in the previous round. 

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Row 9: ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 74sts (75sts in total).  Change to sky blue yarn in last dc. 

Row 10: ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 74 sts (75sts in total). 

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Row 11: Repeat row 9, changing to saffron (yellow yarn) in last dc.  Row 12: (saffron) Repeat row 9. 

Row 13: Repeat row 9, changing to duck egg yarn in last dc. 

Row 14: ch1 (counts as dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, slst in next 35sts, dcin next 20sts (40dc, 35slst, 75sts in total). 

Row 15: Repeat row 14.

wp_20161023_20_14_35_proRow 16: ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, dctogin next st (sts 21 and 22), slst in next 31sts, dctog in next st, dcin next 20sts (42dc, 31slst = 73sts in total).

Row 17: ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 20sts, slst in next 31sts, dc in next 21sts (73sts in total). 

Row 18: ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, dctog in next st (sts 21 and 22), slst in next 29sts, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts (42dc, 29slst = 71sts in total). 

Row 19: ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 20sts, slst in next 29sts, dc in next 21sts (71sts in total).  It should be starting to look a little something like this…

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Row 20: Ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 19sts dctog in next st (sts 21 & 22), slst in next 27sts, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts (42dc, 27slst = 69sts). 

Row 21: Ch1  (counts as a dc), turn work, dcin next 20sts, slst in next 27sts, dc in next 21sts (42dc, 27 slst = 69sts). 

Row 22: Ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, dctog in next st (sts 21 & 22), dctog in next st (sts 23 & 24), dc in next 21sts, dctog in next st, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts (65sts). 

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Your cosy should be starting to take shape now!

Row 23: Ch1 (counts as a dc), turn, dc in next 19 sts,dctog in next st (sts 21 & 22), dc tog in next st (sts 23 & 24),dc in next 17sts, dctog in next st, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts  (61sts). 

We return to working in the round in the next row. 

Row 24: Ch1 (counts as a dc) – mark with a st marker, turn, dc in next 2sts, dctog in next st, *dc in next 3sts,dctog in next st*, repeat * -* around, finishing with 1dc in last st, ch3 and slst into st marked with stitch marker.

new pattern coming soon

 Row 25: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker (52dc). 

Row 26: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next st, dctog in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, dctog in next st* repeat *-* around, finishing with dctog, slst in ch marked with stitch marker (39dc). 

Row 27: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (39dc). 

Row 28: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dctoginnext st, *dc in next st, dctog in next st* repeat *-* around, finishing with a dctog, slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (26dc). 

Row 29: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (26dc). 

Row 30: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, DOES NOT COUNT AS A DC), *dctog in next st*, repeat *-* around, finishing with a dctog, slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (12dc). 

Row 31: Repeat row 30 (6dc)

wp_20161126_17_14_09_proLeaving a small hole, fasten off and weave in ends.  The little hole allows for the knob of the teapot lid to poke through and helps to keep the cosy positioned on teapot.

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Now hand sew on buttons of all different sizes.

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Next hand sew on the lace with a simple running stitch. 

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I used meadow yarn for the lace at the bottom of the cosy and duck egg yarn for the lace around the buttons.

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Just one last thing left to do now.  Boil the kettle and make a brew…enjoy and admire.

xxxxx

 

A yarny little heart…free pattern.

My hands have been yearning to hook in the evenings lately; but the projects I have on the go at the moment (which have to remain secret at least until after Christmas) are rather more intricate than I dare attempt at such an hour where I am prone to the odd gin and tonic or two as well as a little snooze. 

So whilst creating numerous chains the other evening…see here .  I found myself hooking up a yarny little heart with not a care of the process noted down at all. 

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Fast forward a couple of evenings later when the nest was still and quiet, I found myself unable to sleep, thinking of creative yarny possibilities and my yarny little heart began to trouble me. 

So, I found myself unpicking my heart and writing down the pattern and my world was well again. 

So here is my pattern for a ‘yarny little heart’.

This little heart is a great stash busting hook up as it only requires scraps.

You will need:

scraps of double knit (dk) yarn,

4mmhook,

darning needle to weave in the ends. 

Abbreviations used UK terminology (American terminology in brackets)

Ch – chain,         

slst – slip stitch,           

dc – double crochet (single crochet)               

htr – half treble (half double crochet)

tr – treble (double crochet)              

dtr – double treble crochet ( treble )

wp_20161028_13_32_11_proBegin by chaining 2 (ch2),

slst into first ch to form a tiny ring.

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Ch 1 (counts as a dc), place hook inside of ring

wp_20161028_13_34_08_proand make x9 more dc in ring (10dc in total counting beginning ch). 

wp_20161028_13_37_12_proTurn circle over and give the tail end a firm tug…this should pull the centre of the circle into a more closed position.

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Turn back over.

Row 2:

Ch 2 (counts as a dc,ch1),

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*dc, ch1 in next st*

repeat from * – * in each stitch around.

Slst  in 1st ch

(10dc and 10 ch spaces)

wp_20161028_13_46_37_proRow 3:

Ch4 (counts as a dtr), 1dtr in the next 3 sts,

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1tr in next 4sts,

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1htr in next st, dc in next st,

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ch3,

wp_20161028_13_52_06_proSlst into same space (this creates a picot),

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dc in next st, 1htr in next st,

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1tr in next 4 sts,

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1dtr in next 4 sts, slst in to ch1 of beginning ch4.

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Row 4: ch4 (counts as a dtr),

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work x3dtr in side sts of ch4 of previous row

wp_20161028_14_01_21_pro1tr in next 3 sts, 1htr into the next st, 1dc in next 4sts,

wp_20161028_14_03_38_proSlst in picot space

wp_20161028_14_05_28_proch3, slst in to same space (picot made)

wp_20161028_14_06_53_pro1dc in next 4 sts,1htr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts

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1dtr in next 4sts,

slst in to  the cleavage of the heart (i’m sure there is a proper name for that…just not sure what it is!!) But if you don’t understand I mean just here

wp_20161028_14_26_09_proTo create hanging loop ch 14

wp_20161028_14_34_51_proand slst in to same space.

Fasten off to finish and weave in ends. 

Repeat until your hearts content

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xxxxx